Traffic Trails

I have always wanted to capture the awesome effects of traffic trails, so i set off on a night time adventure to do just that. I didn't want to over complicate things so i just went out with the mindset of capturing a few simple images, mostly to prove to myself that i could achieve the desired result.

The technique for capturing traffic trails is very simple, it only requires a tripod, a night time sky and some fast moving vehicles......and of course your fellow friend in crime, your camera!! It is handy to take a small torch with you so you have a little light to help see what you are doing.

For these shots i had my camera mounted on my tripod in the landscape position. I placed myself on a bridge that was looking over a motorway, this allowed me to look down through my camera lens throwing a nice perspective on my subject; in order to get a well balanced line of perspective, i framed my image so i had equal distance on the left and right side of the frame; using the dash markings on the road as a mid point mark is helpful in creating the desired position. I then set my camera mode to manual and the ISO at 100. I set the aperture to F16 and selected a slow shutter speed - i started with a 20 second exposure time. The first couple of images came out too dark with only a sliver of traffic detail - it was pretty quiet on the roads mind! To compensate i selected a slightly slower shutter speed and exposed for 30 seconds, i felt this worked well overall.

Overall these images have worked well as i achieved the simplistic effect i had set out to do. Night photography is something i am very keen to delve into and practice with various locations and learn more of what i am capable of achieving. In the near future i would like to expand on these images and aim for more striking results. Firstly i would shoot a more busy scene, so photographing during rush hour traffic in the same location, i hope, will give me more colourful, interesting and vibrant results.

To aid in my depth of learning through this technique, i would like to try and photograph a variation of 'night scenes' i.e flood lit buildings/churches, moonlit lakes, street scenes, busy city/town at night. I hope to also add a christmas themed shoot as part of my blog as it tis the season to be jolly!!

Manual Mode
ISO 100
F16 @ 20 Second

Manual Mode
ISO 100
F16 @ 30 seconds

Manual Mode
ISO 100
F16 @ 30 seconds

Manual Mode
ISO 100
F16 @ 30 seconds

Manual Mode
ISO 100
F16 @ 30 seconds

Manual Mode
ISO 100
F16 @ 30 seconds
For this shot, i had the moon within in the frame when i i pressed the shutter, held the camera steady for approx 10 seconds then i moved the camera back towards the moving traffic just for fun to see how it would come out. I think the final result is quite interesting and a bit quirky with the zig-zag lines.

Digital Photogram's

Creating a digital photogram is one of the simplest ways to create an image with striking results. Ordinarily this is a technique mostly used in a darkroom as a way of creating a photograph without the use of a camera, which is also a fantastic skill to learn and experiment with.  

Ok, let me explain how you can create a digital photogram at home using a few key things. Firstly you'll need a digital camera, a sheet of glass - I used a glass chopping board! You will also need a torch, a sheet of A4 plain paper and an object of your choice to photograph. The method is to shine the torch up from underneath a glass or a see through surface; if you can acquire a glass table then that would be perfect, if not, you will need to find a way to balance your sheet of glass/clear surface, in order to place your objects steadily on top. I used a small wooden tray holder from Ikea. 

Now you have everything you need, let's get to the fun bit! Place your sheet of plain paper on top of the surface you are using, place the objects on top and arrange in to an eye catching composition that feels and looks good, you will need to shine the torch from underneath the paper to see where the light falls. The tricky part is focusing your camera, so you are best off mounting your camera on a tripod and manually focusing while you have a main light on. Once the main light is off you can still use the light from the torch to find your focus point. Using manual mode set your aperture to F22 and the ISO to 100 and your shutter to around 20 sec - the timings may vary depending on how light or dark your images come out. You need a longer exposure to compensate for the low light conditions from using a torch as the only light source. I used a very small torch which didn't give much light so I had to leave my exposure longer to allow more time for the light to reach the sensor. You can easily gauge this on the back of your camera. The tricky bit is shining the torch and moving it around underneath your subject, so a tripod, long exposure and even a cable release are very handy for capturing digital photogram's, and worth every bit off effort.

Painting with light at home

For the following images I have used the technique 'Painting with light' One of which I really enjoyed experimenting with. I used a dark space (small hallway with the door closed to make sure no light could get in) I used my daughter Charlotte-rose as my model, she quite enjoyed be my little helper! I mounted my camera on a tripod, setting my camera to manual, I set my ISO to 100, shutter speed to 20 seconds and my aperture to F22. I framed and set my focus point manual with the light switched on. Once I had got the shot set up I switched the light off and used a torch to light my subject, 20 seconds is generally a good starting point for the shutter speed with this technique, it allows enough time to move the torch around during the exposure. If you are using a larger torch (giving more output) you can get away with less time and if you are using a smaller touch with less output you would need to increase the exposure time. Most cameras will allow for a maximum of 30 seconds.

I also tried this technique at night time in my living room. I placed a variety of 'Peguine Classic' postcards on top of a small table. Using the same technique I achieved some good results. As well as these images I also shot an image of a stack of my favourite books; I controlled the light by only moving the torch up and down in the middle of my framed shot, I did this because I wanted to add more darkness to the edge, just lighting up the book titles as that was main focus; I wanted the viewers eyes to be drawn to the books. Another shot I tried was to arrange a still life set up with a coffee theme using a coffee mug, a percolator and a jar of coffee beans; I think this worked effectively and the subject is well lit.

Overall I am happy with my final images, especially as it was my first attempt at 'light painting'. I would definitely use this technique in the future, it is such an interesting, creative and fun way to experiment; I also feel that this technique aids in the learning process regards shooting in low light conditions and controlling light itself, to achieve the results you want.

Painting with light

                                   

This was my first attempt at light painting.  For this series of images a fellow student helped me; I wanted to get a shot of the darkroom to use in my sketchbook for my darkroom work.  My aim was to get an image of the darkroom lit up using the painting with light technique. 

I positioned the camera (mounted on a tripod) at an angle facing towards the developing area as this was the key element i wanted to capture in my shots. Myself and Lisa worked together in setting the aperture and shutter speed, i then stood to the side of the shot and a used an LED torch to paint the light around the room slowly; using a long exposure allowed the time needed to create a soft flowing movement, enhancing the softness of the light. I changed my position until no flare from the torch could be seen in the final images. I then changed my focus and aimed to just light up the area with the developing trays, rather than the whole room; i hoped this would create a darker area with plenty of shadows to create a more in depth and atmospheric outcome.

I am happy with these final images, mostly because they were my first attempt at using this fantastic technique. All of the images are sharp and lit up well. I especially like the starry affect on the taps in the 2nd and 3rd images. 

If i was to shoot this set up again, i would choose to use a wider angle as to get more of the room in the frame. I would then use the same technique to paint up only the developing area; i feel this would add more depth with a higher density of shadows, creating more impact and drama. I would also use this technique to photograph one of the enlargers to include in my sketchbook, this would supply me with a visual aid to tie in with my explanations of the darkroom and all it's wonderful equipment used in the realms of black & white printing. 

Overall i will definitely use this technique in the future. Experimenting in photography is so much fun and can really help you along your journey, by discovering ways in which you can communicate your thoughts and ideas, while increasing your technical skills and adding more creativity to your palette.

 ISO - 400
Aperture - f/22
 Exposure 15 seconds
  Metering Mode - Pattern

ISO - 400
Aperture f/22
Exposure - 15 seconds
Metering Mode - Pattern

ISO - 400
Aperture f/22
Exposure - 15 seconds
Metering Mode - Pattern

ISO - 400
Aperture - f/22
Exposure - 15 seconds
Metering mode - Pattern

ISO - 400
Aperture f/22
Exposure 20 seconds
Metering Mode - Pattern

ISO - 400
Aperture f/22
Exposure 15 seconds
Metering Mode - Pattern