More Zooming Images

I wanted go back to the zooming technique that I previously discussed, to see if I could get better results. Unfortunately I was unable to get to my tripod, so the following images are shot whilst hand-holding my camera (Canon M Series 18mm-55mm) Having a beautiful garden at my disposal I decided to use this serene setting to add some colour to my shots. I used 100 ISO as it is very sunny today, shutter speed of 4 seconds ( you shouldn't really shoot any lower than 60 seconds but I mastered a steady hand) and an aperture of F22. 

I chose a selection of subjects to photograph to add a variety to my final images. I tweaked the images in photoshop just to add a bit more vibrancy to the colour. Obviously they would be much sharper had I been able to get hold of a tripod, but overall I feel I have achieved some good example images to show the effects of 'zooming.' Here are my final results.

Zooming

Zooming is a technique that can create truly amazing results if done correctly. It can take a fair amount of practice to nail the art of 'Zooming' but the unique quality of these types of images is worth the patience. Below are two images of my very first time trying this out, I would like to try this out again as I feel with more practice using a variety of subjects, I could achieve more eye catching results. These images are a reasonable example but they are a tad bland, still they do have some awesome motion blur. I would like to try this out using a tree and somewhere really colourful to create an image that is just bursting out with colour; patterns would be an interesting subject for this technique also.

To create this affect it is best to use a lens that can be manually focused and is quick to turn. A fixed lens won't work as the basis of this technique lies within the movement of the lens while the shutter is open, therefore you will need a zoom lens for this to work properly. A slow shutter speed of 1-4seconds is needed to capture the abstract visual affect and an ISO setting of 100-200 would work best with an aperture of F22. The key is to focus on your subject, release the shut and zoom out just before the shutter closes again; because a slow shutter speed is needed a tripod is an essential piece of equipment here. You can use a shutter release or self timer on the camera if you wish. These images didn't work very well; the first image of one of my film cameras was shot from floor level in order to steady the camera and to get a close up view of the subject. If I took this image again, I would place the camera (subject) higher up, perhaps on a table, I would then be able to mount my camera on a tripod and get the same composition but a much better 'zooming' effect. The second image was shot whilst I was in London, unfortunately I didn't have my tripod with me, I tried it out anyway just to see what results i could get whilst hand holding my camera. Next time I will take my tripod with me.

This technique is a good example for showing the relationship between ISO, shutter speed and aperture. Needing a wider aperture of F22 means the subject and background are in focus but less light is getting into the camera, the lower ISO and slow shutter speed counteracts the wider aperture.

Digital Photogram's

Creating a digital photogram is one of the simplest ways to create an image with striking results. Ordinarily this is a technique mostly used in a darkroom as a way of creating a photograph without the use of a camera, which is also a fantastic skill to learn and experiment with.  

Ok, let me explain how you can create a digital photogram at home using a few key things. Firstly you'll need a digital camera, a sheet of glass - I used a glass chopping board! You will also need a torch, a sheet of A4 plain paper and an object of your choice to photograph. The method is to shine the torch up from underneath a glass or a see through surface; if you can acquire a glass table then that would be perfect, if not, you will need to find a way to balance your sheet of glass/clear surface, in order to place your objects steadily on top. I used a small wooden tray holder from Ikea. 

Now you have everything you need, let's get to the fun bit! Place your sheet of plain paper on top of the surface you are using, place the objects on top and arrange in to an eye catching composition that feels and looks good, you will need to shine the torch from underneath the paper to see where the light falls. The tricky part is focusing your camera, so you are best off mounting your camera on a tripod and manually focusing while you have a main light on. Once the main light is off you can still use the light from the torch to find your focus point. Using manual mode set your aperture to F22 and the ISO to 100 and your shutter to around 20 sec - the timings may vary depending on how light or dark your images come out. You need a longer exposure to compensate for the low light conditions from using a torch as the only light source. I used a very small torch which didn't give much light so I had to leave my exposure longer to allow more time for the light to reach the sensor. You can easily gauge this on the back of your camera. The tricky bit is shining the torch and moving it around underneath your subject, so a tripod, long exposure and even a cable release are very handy for capturing digital photogram's, and worth every bit off effort.

Painting with light at home

For the following images I have used the technique 'Painting with light' One of which I really enjoyed experimenting with. I used a dark space (small hallway with the door closed to make sure no light could get in) I used my daughter Charlotte-rose as my model, she quite enjoyed be my little helper! I mounted my camera on a tripod, setting my camera to manual, I set my ISO to 100, shutter speed to 20 seconds and my aperture to F22. I framed and set my focus point manual with the light switched on. Once I had got the shot set up I switched the light off and used a torch to light my subject, 20 seconds is generally a good starting point for the shutter speed with this technique, it allows enough time to move the torch around during the exposure. If you are using a larger torch (giving more output) you can get away with less time and if you are using a smaller touch with less output you would need to increase the exposure time. Most cameras will allow for a maximum of 30 seconds.

I also tried this technique at night time in my living room. I placed a variety of 'Peguine Classic' postcards on top of a small table. Using the same technique I achieved some good results. As well as these images I also shot an image of a stack of my favourite books; I controlled the light by only moving the torch up and down in the middle of my framed shot, I did this because I wanted to add more darkness to the edge, just lighting up the book titles as that was main focus; I wanted the viewers eyes to be drawn to the books. Another shot I tried was to arrange a still life set up with a coffee theme using a coffee mug, a percolator and a jar of coffee beans; I think this worked effectively and the subject is well lit.

Overall I am happy with my final images, especially as it was my first attempt at 'light painting'. I would definitely use this technique in the future, it is such an interesting, creative and fun way to experiment; I also feel that this technique aids in the learning process regards shooting in low light conditions and controlling light itself, to achieve the results you want.