Depth Of Field

I shot the following images as a simple way of showing depth of field and how to understand the relationship between aperture and shutter speed and how of we use aperture to create a shallow (small) DOF, and a wide (large) DOF. I have shown on each image below what aperture (shown as an F-number) I have used, whilst showing the background with a box around it in order to show how the background is blurred with a small aperture and it gradually gains focus the higher the aperture. The lens I was using only goes as low as f4, which gives a reasonable depth of field, but I would always use 1.8 - 2.8 for best results. A shallow DOF causes the background of an image to be completely out of focus, therefore bringing instant focus to the subject you are shooting; making for much better images, especially portraits. 

These are some simple shots to show as a starting point. I have added what shutter speed I used for each shot, I will go into more detail as this is what is important regards the relationship between shutter and aperture. Hopefully this will give any beginner a rough starting point.

Aperture F.5 Shutter speed 500th of a second

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Aperture F8 Shutter Speed 250th of a second

Aperture F.11 Shutter Speed 125th of a second

F.16 Shutter Speed 60th of a second

You should be able to notice the difference in the amount of blur in the background in each image, as shown above. Aperture and shutter speed work in increments. F numbers also, when we talk of f-numbers we use the term 'stop' so a 'stop' up or a 'stop' down. The same with shutter speed. Each time we change the f-number, we also change the shutter speed, otherwise we would end up with under or over exposed images. The higher the f-number, the lower the shutter speed; this is because with a higher f-number, lets say f22, the lens is almost closed which means that not much light is passing through, therefore to counteract this we must use a slower shutter speed which allows for a longer exposure time, which enables more light to reach the censor. Using a lower f-number, lets say f4 the lens is almost wide open which is letting more light through, therefore to counteract this we would use a faster shutter speed as this will let less light in - this is the basis for a getting a good exposure.

More Zooming Images

I wanted go back to the zooming technique that I previously discussed, to see if I could get better results. Unfortunately I was unable to get to my tripod, so the following images are shot whilst hand-holding my camera (Canon M Series 18mm-55mm) Having a beautiful garden at my disposal I decided to use this serene setting to add some colour to my shots. I used 100 ISO as it is very sunny today, shutter speed of 4 seconds ( you shouldn't really shoot any lower than 60 seconds but I mastered a steady hand) and an aperture of F22. 

I chose a selection of subjects to photograph to add a variety to my final images. I tweaked the images in photoshop just to add a bit more vibrancy to the colour. Obviously they would be much sharper had I been able to get hold of a tripod, but overall I feel I have achieved some good example images to show the effects of 'zooming.' Here are my final results.

Camera basics

A digital camera has 4 main modes of use:

Auto, manual, programme, AV and TV. I will break these down and explain each mode and when you would use each one, depending upon what is being photographed and the desired outcome.

Auto

Auto mode is the safest and easiest camera function for anyone new to photography. It gives a person the opportunity to strip everything back to the basics and enables the focus to start with just getting used to a camera and to start taking pictures. Auto mode sets the aperture, shutter speed and the ISO for you. 

ISO

ISO originates from the days of film negatives and relates directly to the sensitivity of the film. In the simplest of forms the ISO measures how much light is carried to the cameras sensor. ISO ratings vary but the most common are: 100, 200, 400, 800, 1000. Most digital cameras have the ability of a much higher ISO setting and variations in between. To give a simplified breakdown the lower the ISO setting, the less light is getting in; a higher ISO of 800 allows more light onto the sensor. You could you ISO 100 - 200 when photographing outside in bright sunny conditions, and ISO 400 inside, pushing it higher if the lighting conditions are very low. The issues found whilst using a higher ISO is that more grain is created within an image. ISO, aperture and shutter speed are to be used in conjunction with each other. This is just a brief and simple explanation of ISO and what it does. Below is an image I have sourced online to further explain the importance of ISO and when to use a lower or higher ISO.

Image Source: Pinterest.com Via forums.thebump.com

AV Mode

AV stands for Aperture Priority - this mode allows the photographer to set the aperture manually, the camera then automatically sets the shutter speed. On a digital SLR the aperture setting is delivered as a F-number value. F numbers start from as low as F1.8 up to F22. You would use AV mode if you are purely wanting to control the depth of field of your images. Simply put depth of field relates to how much of an image is in focus. A large depth of field means most/all of the image is in focus. A small or shallow DOF means that more of an image is out of focus. Therefore to clarify F1.8 will create blur in the background of your images, increasing the aperture to F16 will give more overall focus to an image; using a wider aperture of F16/F22 is handy when shooting landscapes and a photographer wants to capture the overall scene not missing anything out, from the foreground to the background.

F - Numbers and Depth Of Field

This is where people can become a little confused, some of the technical parts within photography can seem very backwards, aperture would be one of those times! Here is a diagram that helps to see where the difference in F number values lie and how they are used to create DOF and to also help out with different lighting conditions. 

Image Source:Pinterest.com originally found on somewhatsimple.com

You can see from the diagram above how the lens is fully open when set to a lower f-stop such as F1.4, and the lens is almost fully closed at F16. So with an F-stop of 1.4 we can also see that MORE light is able to be captured giving brighter images, but at F16 or more LESS light is getting in through the lens, creating a much darker image.

As well as a lower F number allows more light into the camera, it also creates a very shallow depth of field - meaning that the background is blurry and the foreground is pin sharp, depending upon your focal point. A larger F number creates a large depth of field, meaning that more of the subject is in focus - foreground and background. 

I will go into more detail regards DOF and aperture settings in another post and show some examples of images using this technique. 

TV Mode

T.V stands for " Time value ", this mode is used primarily to control the cameras shutter speed. By selecting TV mode you can manually select what shutter speed you would like to use, the camera will then automatically set the aperture for you depending upon what lighting conditions you are shooting in. Remember you can compensate using the ISO. Shutter speed basically determines how fast or slow the shutter releases/stays open for. A fast shutter means the shutter release fires open and closes quickly, and a slow shutter speeds allows the camera shutter curtain to stay open longer. A easy way of grasping what 'shutter curtain' means is to imagine a pair of curtains - the longer the curtains are open the more light is let in, the less time the curtains are open the less light can get in. 

Shutter priority (TV mode) is best used when your main priority is to either have a long exposure - slow shutter or if you are shooting a lot of movement where you want as little blur as possible, like a sporting event or someone running or dancing - fast shutter speed. Most pro digital cameras have a shutter speed value up to 1/8000th of a second, some more entry level cameras can go up to 1/4000th of a second. Bear in mind that most cameras can still be hand held at a 60th of a second, anything slower than this will need a tripod to avoid camera shake and unwanted blurry images. For a quick visual guide to explain shutter speed and an idea of when to use different time values, I have included an image below as a reference.

Image source: capturebylucy.com. Originally found on Pinterest.com

Program Mode

Using Program mode gives you a little more control over the camera and is a step up from using Auto Mode. Program mode will set the aperature and shutter speed automatically, but you have free control over the ISO setting, flash - if your camera has an inbuilt flash you can chose whether to use this or not, also program gives you control over exposure compensation, meaning you can either increase the exposure and decrease depending on the lighting conditions you are faced with. The main advantage of Program mode is that it allows for more creative use of the camera and to get to know your digital camera without fear of getting the wrong exposure and it is a good way of easing out of Auto Mode gently. The image below is to demonstrate how the exposure compensation diagram will look when looking through your lens or on the back of a digital SLR.

Image Source:freedigitalphotographytutorials.com

Manual Mode

Manual Mode does exactly what it says - allows the photographer to control the cameras settings manually; it gives full control over: aperture, shutter speed and ISO. I personally feel more comfortable as a photographer using Manual Mode as I feel I can control all the elements I need to get the results that I require. It can feel very daunting for any beginner in photography, therefore I feel it is always best to start out using Auto Mode, moving onto Program Mode and working up to working on Manual Mode more confidently.

Studio

I am as passionate about dancing as i am about photography. Innocence and freedom is what i wanted to capture with these images, and what better subject is there to create images with a sense of freedom and movement than children?! 

This series of images were shot in my living room against a white wall as a backdrop. I positioned one soft box to the left of my subject at a 45 degree angle and had a little light from a window to the right of my subject. I shot them all in black and white and only took the contrast down in Photoshop to give them a softer finish. I was really pleased with the final images, mostly because they are so simply shot. If i were to change anything, i would not shoot the last two pictures at a angle, the composition doesn't quite work as the angle of the wooden floor against the skirting board is quite harsh. Overall i like the natural affect a wooden floor creates, over a fully laid out white backdrop;it adds more depth and tone, incorporating a 'Lifestyle' image instead of a typical 'Studio' image. 

Zooming

Zooming is a technique that can create truly amazing results if done correctly. It can take a fair amount of practice to nail the art of 'Zooming' but the unique quality of these types of images is worth the patience. Below are two images of my very first time trying this out, I would like to try this out again as I feel with more practice using a variety of subjects, I could achieve more eye catching results. These images are a reasonable example but they are a tad bland, still they do have some awesome motion blur. I would like to try this out using a tree and somewhere really colourful to create an image that is just bursting out with colour; patterns would be an interesting subject for this technique also.

To create this affect it is best to use a lens that can be manually focused and is quick to turn. A fixed lens won't work as the basis of this technique lies within the movement of the lens while the shutter is open, therefore you will need a zoom lens for this to work properly. A slow shutter speed of 1-4seconds is needed to capture the abstract visual affect and an ISO setting of 100-200 would work best with an aperture of F22. The key is to focus on your subject, release the shut and zoom out just before the shutter closes again; because a slow shutter speed is needed a tripod is an essential piece of equipment here. You can use a shutter release or self timer on the camera if you wish. These images didn't work very well; the first image of one of my film cameras was shot from floor level in order to steady the camera and to get a close up view of the subject. If I took this image again, I would place the camera (subject) higher up, perhaps on a table, I would then be able to mount my camera on a tripod and get the same composition but a much better 'zooming' effect. The second image was shot whilst I was in London, unfortunately I didn't have my tripod with me, I tried it out anyway just to see what results i could get whilst hand holding my camera. Next time I will take my tripod with me.

This technique is a good example for showing the relationship between ISO, shutter speed and aperture. Needing a wider aperture of F22 means the subject and background are in focus but less light is getting into the camera, the lower ISO and slow shutter speed counteracts the wider aperture.

Inspiration - Rain filled skies

Feeling inspired by the recent rain filled skies. This image represents the beauty of the typical english weather. I feel it also incorporates the glowing and vibrant colours of the Christmas season.

Image Credit: http://www.flickr.com/photos/10smark/5792385639/

Studio

These images were produced in a very simple home environment using one main light - a soft box, shot against a white background (a living room wall!) and with my model sat comfortably crossed legged on a cushion; this is a natural position to anyone meditating. My main light was positioned at a 45 degree angle to the right (my right) of my model. My aim was to create a series of images that were soft and natural; overall conveying an essence of peace and solitude. I chose to shoot in black & white as I feel it delivers emotive qualities, creating depth and feeling. The theme that these images represent is 'Meditation' - a state of pure quiet, balance and tranquility. I was also able to capture the key lighting effect seen within 'Rembrant' lighting.

I was very happy with the final outcome of these photographs, to add to my own satisfaction I received a fair amount of positive feedback from these images and my model adored them.

" Namaste "

Traffic Trails

I have always wanted to capture the awesome effects of traffic trails, so i set off on a night time adventure to do just that. I didn't want to over complicate things so i just went out with the mindset of capturing a few simple images, mostly to prove to myself that i could achieve the desired result.

The technique for capturing traffic trails is very simple, it only requires a tripod, a night time sky and some fast moving vehicles......and of course your fellow friend in crime, your camera!! It is handy to take a small torch with you so you have a little light to help see what you are doing.

For these shots i had my camera mounted on my tripod in the landscape position. I placed myself on a bridge that was looking over a motorway, this allowed me to look down through my camera lens throwing a nice perspective on my subject; in order to get a well balanced line of perspective, i framed my image so i had equal distance on the left and right side of the frame; using the dash markings on the road as a mid point mark is helpful in creating the desired position. I then set my camera mode to manual and the ISO at 100. I set the aperture to F16 and selected a slow shutter speed - i started with a 20 second exposure time. The first couple of images came out too dark with only a sliver of traffic detail - it was pretty quiet on the roads mind! To compensate i selected a slightly slower shutter speed and exposed for 30 seconds, i felt this worked well overall.

Overall these images have worked well as i achieved the simplistic effect i had set out to do. Night photography is something i am very keen to delve into and practice with various locations and learn more of what i am capable of achieving. In the near future i would like to expand on these images and aim for more striking results. Firstly i would shoot a more busy scene, so photographing during rush hour traffic in the same location, i hope, will give me more colourful, interesting and vibrant results.

To aid in my depth of learning through this technique, i would like to try and photograph a variation of 'night scenes' i.e flood lit buildings/churches, moonlit lakes, street scenes, busy city/town at night. I hope to also add a christmas themed shoot as part of my blog as it tis the season to be jolly!!

Manual Mode
ISO 100
F16 @ 20 Second

Manual Mode
ISO 100
F16 @ 30 seconds

Manual Mode
ISO 100
F16 @ 30 seconds

Manual Mode
ISO 100
F16 @ 30 seconds

Manual Mode
ISO 100
F16 @ 30 seconds

Manual Mode
ISO 100
F16 @ 30 seconds
For this shot, i had the moon within in the frame when i i pressed the shutter, held the camera steady for approx 10 seconds then i moved the camera back towards the moving traffic just for fun to see how it would come out. I think the final result is quite interesting and a bit quirky with the zig-zag lines.

Digital Photogram's

Creating a digital photogram is one of the simplest ways to create an image with striking results. Ordinarily this is a technique mostly used in a darkroom as a way of creating a photograph without the use of a camera, which is also a fantastic skill to learn and experiment with.  

Ok, let me explain how you can create a digital photogram at home using a few key things. Firstly you'll need a digital camera, a sheet of glass - I used a glass chopping board! You will also need a torch, a sheet of A4 plain paper and an object of your choice to photograph. The method is to shine the torch up from underneath a glass or a see through surface; if you can acquire a glass table then that would be perfect, if not, you will need to find a way to balance your sheet of glass/clear surface, in order to place your objects steadily on top. I used a small wooden tray holder from Ikea. 

Now you have everything you need, let's get to the fun bit! Place your sheet of plain paper on top of the surface you are using, place the objects on top and arrange in to an eye catching composition that feels and looks good, you will need to shine the torch from underneath the paper to see where the light falls. The tricky part is focusing your camera, so you are best off mounting your camera on a tripod and manually focusing while you have a main light on. Once the main light is off you can still use the light from the torch to find your focus point. Using manual mode set your aperture to F22 and the ISO to 100 and your shutter to around 20 sec - the timings may vary depending on how light or dark your images come out. You need a longer exposure to compensate for the low light conditions from using a torch as the only light source. I used a very small torch which didn't give much light so I had to leave my exposure longer to allow more time for the light to reach the sensor. You can easily gauge this on the back of your camera. The tricky bit is shining the torch and moving it around underneath your subject, so a tripod, long exposure and even a cable release are very handy for capturing digital photogram's, and worth every bit off effort.

Studio

Natural Light Photography